Saturday, December 22, 2007

Tucked in Red

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto (Japanese, b. 1943). Dress, spring/summer 2005. Red hand-pleated silk crepe. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2006 (2006.37).

When asked about the inspiration for his beautifully pleated gowns, Yohji Yamamoto replied equivocally, “Maybe Mme Grès—maybe.” Over the last twenty years Yamamoto has moved from a style characterized by a radical upending of the conventions of Western dress, both in his aesthetics and in his construction techniques, to a quieter, contemplative questioning of the great traditions of fashionable attire. Clearly, his research into the masters of twentieth-century couture dressmaking and bespoke tailoring has informed his astonishing recent collections, which are at once historicizing and avant-garde.

This pleated gown both honors and advances the work of Grès. While the technique reprises the approach evolved by the iconic couturiere, Yamamoto introduces a full three-dimensionality to the pleated relief of the silk, which was rare in the designs by Grès. Yamamoto’s odd, staggered pairing of pleated donutlike shapes at the neckline recalls sea anemones in retraction or coral formations—an allusion to nature and the sea that the designer does not dismiss.

Comments (172)

  1. giancinephile Says:

    From afar, it looks like one of Valentino’s signature red dresses but as you look closer you see these bell like formations that are almost architectural.

    There is always that element of surprise among the avant-garde group of designers- the unconventional techniques, the technology, and sheer showmanship (if there’s such a word).

    A good piece for future curation would be those lighted and moving dresses from Chalayan’s fall 2007 collection.

  2. Srta a Says:

    Es delicioso. Rojo, sencillo pero trabajado, me gusta.

  3. someone Says:

    Es musico a mi ojos. ME GUSTA!!!!!!!

  4. Genny Says:

    the color of this dress is absolutely beautiful!

  5. Puya Abolfathi Says:


  6. Anita P. Says:

    This is just darling.

  7. Maggie Says:

    I find the tubes on the bodice weird and superfluous on an otherwise beautiful dress.

  8. AntiGenre Says:

    I have always loved Yamamoto’s clothes - they have a wonderful ‘constructed’ (or de-constructed, in some cases) look; like Giancinephile above said, they’re almost architectural.

  9. jeun Says:

    esta irreal esta exhibicion, …..

  10. jason rapport Says:

    I don’t get it…probably never will.

  11. Nikki D. Says:

    Oh my.

  12. Diane Says:

    The red tubes are too organic, and create this association of woman as carnivore or vessel.

  13. Mary P. Says:

    Like most runway fashion, you wouldn’t see many people wearing something like this. However, the color is amazing, not exactly fond of the bell formations for myself, but still, a beautifully constructed gown.

  14. Karly Says:

    This was a really gorgeous dress. I would consider wearing it.

  15. john Says:


  16. c willow Says:

    This is beautiful and makes me smile

  17. Plannergrl Says:

    The pleating in this dress, as well as throughout the exhibit, is most fascinating to me. The labor! The patience! The end result is something more sculptural even, than wearable.

  18. jessie cohen Says:

    The dress is a complete work of art with its beautiful color and surprising shape, but it is very approachable as a wearable garment which is what makes it so appealing.

  19. Lacey Says:

    How red…..Like pretty pleated tomatoes…..

  20. B. Ray Says:

    I can’t even begin to imagine how this was made. The way the top curls into these architectural shapes is amazing.

  21. Laurie Aron Says:

    Sometimes a garment stops you in your tracks and chokes you up with its beauty. Like this one. It makes you wonder how the designer ever thought of doing what he did and grateful that he did it.

  22. julzz Says:

    I LOVE UR CLOTHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:):):):):):):):)p)

  23. Rafael Fernandez Says:

    hmmm its beautiful.

  24. darky Says:

    Looks like shrek ears

  25. Anna Says:

    i think the dress is beatiful!
    it looks so good red!

  26. Moo Says:

    Why are there tubes at the neck?

  27. nyc Says:

    i LOVE THIS DRESS. IT IS SO beautiful.It really is

  28. fj Says:

    I like the idea of the two glove openings.

    Not quite sure what the purpose is, milking, handwarmers?

  29. anna Says:

    very origanal and cool

  30. jessica Says:

    I like the outfits that spin around so you can see all the sides

  31. Emily Says:

    The fabric used on this GOWN IS GORGEOUS, AND i LOVE the bold hue of it.

  32. Charlotte Says:

    . The designer did a great job with the fabric and color. ELVIS ROX!!!!!!

  33. Ilana Says:

    My Mom Loves the color red and it looks perfect to wear to a evening party or date!

  34. Neil Says:

    Beautiful and wearable. Flattering for all figures.

  35. Erin, age 8 Says:

    This dress is very interesting and amazing to look at. The exhibit was fascinating with all the pretty dresses.

  36. james bond Says:

    i think is KINDA nice

  37. Tuffy Says:

    Does anyone else think the tubes look just like the shoulder detail on that red Balenciaga Nicole Kidman wore to the Oscars last year?

    The site admin really should post bigger scans of the pix.

  38. Sarah Says:

    The surprise balls of cloth make the dress an interesting edition to the exhibit. The dress and the color is gorgeous, but I do not know if I would personally wear it.

  39. Frannie Says:

    This dress is so beautiful. It’s very different from what we wear today!

  40. matt Says:

    amazing! elegant and simple, while still retaining the ability to be very sophisticated. the shade of the fabric only helps it stand out even more.

  41. andrea Says:

    this dress is amazing and in some way reminds me of a fruit ….. it’color and incredibly small tube like pleats make it one of a kind.

  42. Carolyn Says:

    Fire truck red is one of my favorite colors! I think it looks great as a dress. I really wish I could wear this.

  43. Katti Says:

    Red is my ultimate favorite color so I love this dress! The rouching is amazing, to think people do this by hand is awe inspiring. It is very new-age greek. Maybe something worn by a God!

  44. Jenna, Shivonne and Jen Says:


  45. zita Says:

    disgusting and bad i’d never wear that

  46. Tess Miller Says:

    Beautiful achitecture and design. The hand pleating and rouching on this dress is gorgeous, the draping is also fabulous.

  47. grace Says:

    red. very very red. pretty. red.

  48. Emily Says:

    I like the red straps and the pretty flowers!!!

  49. CAL Says:

    This show is great. I like how it goes through a very broad time period through fashion. This dress is gorgeous, with a great vibrant red fabric and pleats and everything. I like it!!!!

  50. Jo Says:

    woooooooo, special!

  51. I Says:

    I think it’s cute, and I hate dresses!

  52. Carly Says:

    Although I appreciate Yamamoto for his unique creative vision, I think it is obvious that this piece was definitely inspired by Mme. Gres and Yamamoto should not be so reluctant to acknowlege it.

  53. Ian Brown Says:


  54. Bali Says:

    The red dress is off the chain!

  55. Tian Zhang Says:

    Red is my favorite. It is my honor to meet the master’s work at New York.
    He is not only a designer but also a man who changes the way we live!!!
    My thank goes to the blogmode inside the museum.
    It is really a great show!!!

  56. Caroline Says:

    I luv this dress!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  57. James Says:

    The color and workmanship save it. But I prefer the red changeant taffeta Galliano for his masterful use of diagonal seaming. Yamamato cares little for the human form.

  58. moutang Says:

    The red dress looks like Shrek’s ears coming off of it - otherwise it’s pretty, but the big things make it look strange.

  59. Bekah Says:

    figures the guy who made it is japanese, cause the style is very abstract. however it is still very stunning. the red is cool.

  60. haley fay Says:

    the top part looks like a sea anemene!

  61. Joshua Cartwright Says:

    This dress is very classy and has a nice cut to it. The colour is fantastic, very eye-catching.

  62. Gina Brake Says:

    Looks like a giant red snail is climbing up her bosom.

  63. CM Says:

    A stunning colour and design - wonderful use of form and drape.

  64. pete Says:


  65. Madeleine Says:

    I really like this dress though the material sort of reminds me of that stuff that whales have instead of teeth.

  66. beth Says:


  67. katie Says:

    this dress is really beautiful. the color and everything else about it catches my eye but i can’t really picture myself wearing it. :P

  68. Carol Markel Says:

    Yes, a beautiful red. But, big deal. Anyone can use one beautiful color. Those strange forms at the top? Some kind of sucking sea creature. Does not belong on a dress worn by a woman.

  69. Emlyn Says:

    It is very pretty. It’s a little bit too much red. And the chest is kind of big. It’s a little bit too skinny. It would be very pretty at a ball. I can imagine a princess wearing it. And it looks like she spilled very bright red wine on it, but it looks good.
    I like how it’s wrinkly at the bottom. You should wear very dark red shoes with it. I could imagine your hair being red, too.
    Also, wear tights with it. Red.
    –six year old fan

  70. Haley Says:

    Red dress- I like it and I think it’s pretty and it’s my favorite dress!
    (Haley is 3 1/2)

  71. Laura Says:

    Suckers don’t belong on dresses. Obviously!

  72. Molly Says:

    I own one just like it!

  73. Bob Says:

    If the fashion is allowed to be so provocative, why can’t the comments be? Seems antithetical to the spirit of the exhibit and its presentation of fashion as egalitarian in the face of the more “haughty art forms.”


  74. Grace Says:

    I liked the dress because of the color red.And Iwuold like to wear it.But I realy liked the sleeves. from:Grace age 9

  75. brooke Says:

    this is so cool . i love the clothes . they are so cute . i wish it was mine. if you are done with them you can give it all to me when i grow anofe to fit in the clothes.i can’t waut to come back

    your friend


  76. lambrini Says:

    I am very excited to be here!!!!!!
    I love fashion!!!!
    It’s so interesting discovering old fashioned dresses and customs but always diachronical!!!
    I wish a could be a model or a inspiried designer drawing these perfect clothes!!!!!
    lambrini lambrianidou - athens / greece

  77. tiffany Says:

    THIS IS AMAZING. color like beautiful flowing blood colored lipstick. i love it.

  78. Kate Says:

    Absolutely fantastic — I want to touch it, it looks so beautiful and vibrant!

  79. Michael Says:

    This is so hot!


    ah!! yamamoto always create such a elegant and simple pieces of clothes.

    This red dress is just beautiful !!

  81. berkus maximus Says:

    totally tubular

  82. ana b. Says:

    this dress absolutely took my breath away. i know nothing about construction when it comes to dresses - but the attention to detail is just incredible, not to mention the color.
    this whole exhibit is one of my favorites that the fashion institute has had - this and vivian westwood’s.
    john galliano’s comments were really interesting - i like how they were placed throughout the exhibit.

  83. naeema Says:

    this dress is sooo0o fetch.I want it

  84. stephanie Says:

    i think this dress is beautiful - though it looks better from the side than from the front
    except that i would need to hem it before i wore it because i am shorter than the mannequin … or, i could wear the platform pink shoes with it.

    I AM SO EXCITED TO BE HERE!!!!!!!!!!

  85. aron Says:

    this dress is wonderful but it would just has great if you could see it in motion. and also why are some dresses rotating and others not? It would be cool if the dresses were shown in animation somehow walking! the flow of the dresses would be a sight to behold!

  86. Vinny Bova Says:

    I find this dress to embody the very essence of romanticized deconstruction of the Western World. To gaze at its intricate labryinth of woven crimson, I find myself harkening back to a time when I was young and submerged in a vat of passion.

  87. Lily Monir Matini, Esq. Says:

    at first glance, i thought this was Nicole Kidman’s gown from the Oscars
    thank God for details, love it even though i prefer gowns to be below ankle length
    unless of course, you’re dancing, then leave it where it is

  88. omar Says:

    Yamamoto- “maybe Mde Gres”…… you gotta be kidding, Yohji, MAYBE?!!!!!!!
    and what do we do with the “horns” at the neckline? store truffles????

  89. Megan Bell Says:

    What a beautiful. The color and flow of the dress on the body drew me to this. I love the pleating of the fabric. simply gorgeous! I do not however like the top of the dress. To me it looks like it has sleeves cut off the side of the dress and then sewn in an interesting way to the front of the dress. I do not care for it much (the sleeve thing).

  90. Emmanuel Says:

    Maybe ? What do you mean may be ? It a clear copy of two dresses from Mme Grey assembled into. Copycat clearly (both dresses copied are in the exhibition. Make your own opinion.

  91. Paco Peralta Says:

    Oh!!. Este vestido es una obra de arte en toda su expresión. El color, el plisado y su ensamblaje son dignos de la exposición como tal. Felicidades al artista y al museo. Saludos desde Barcelona (España). Paco

  92. Ramona Sky Says:

    when i first looked at the dress it looked like it had sleeves on the side that were right next to eachother. I’ve never seen a dress like that and one thing about the red, it just tied everything together.

  93. Kristal Says:

    Stunning - I love the tomato red color and the pleating.

  94. Razia l Sultana Says:

    if only we could all own and wear such lyrical human expressions nature’s geometry / and couture wasn’t a class privilege and faraway spectacle

  95. Ted Han Says:

    The way the dress falls on the form of the body is phenomenal!

  96. Isabela Says:

    This is VERY Keira Nightly I could totaly see her wearing it on the Red Carpet

  97. Lyris Says:

    I think this is a very flattering and beautiful garment. The color is astonishing.

  98. Carolou Says:

    This is the perfect dress for my friend MLS

  99. Rishko Says:

    love the plexiglas skirt - need to see plexiglas panties.

  100. Stacy Says:

    I really enjoy this red dress with it’s detailed designs on it. It is a very pretty dress.

  101. Gracey Says:

    The mille feuille of the dress is unreal! It’s hard to believe a human could create such a work of art. The Alexander McQueen cream colored dress found later in the exhibit also left me in awe…shear genius from artists still walking this earth!

  102. N Says:

    For some odd reason, the red poufs remind me of….doughnuts??

  103. Donna says Says:

    Who would not look gorgeous and feminine n this firery red dress. This designer truly loves women.

  104. jasmin hernandez Says:

    i was shocked to discover this is a yohji piece, its so out of his normal aesthetic. He is truly flattering, accentuating, and celebrating a woman’s figure . i love his use of vibrant red, great cut, and assymetrical neckline.

  105. Christa Deleon Says:

    The color that yohji exhibited on this dress is amazing, it stands out uniquely. The silk crepe is hand made adds a little bit more umph into the dress.

  106. Tymeisha Lovell Says:

    The dress is beautiful. It’s the type of dress that I would wear on the red carpet or at a formal attire event. It’s amazing!

  107. Sanefa Says:

    I love Yanamoto’s clothes, they are wonderfull this dress is gorgeous and the color is just amazing

  108. Jasmine Garris Says:

    dazzling!!!!!..a wonderful creation.. its glamourous and the bell like structure is very creative.

  109. Sanefa Says:

    I really love this red dress by Yamamoto, I think the color is just amazing, Its just gorgeous on i would love to own

  110. Kenny R. Manuel Says:

    This dress is beautiful and elegant. In my opinion, I could see this amazing couture on a run-way model or a celebrity.

  111. Yesenia Sosa Says:

    Now, this dress is beautiful, this was the first dress I spoted when I came. I love the color and the pleated.

  112. Ciara Says:

    This garment was ugly i didn’t like it at all.

  113. KIKI Says:

    Beautiful and elegant, what more can I say?

  114. Abby Says:

    th dress is beautiful, vibrant red, and i would consider wearing it.

  115. Caroline Says:


  116. Nancy Says:

    The tubular design at the sleeve does is not really a favorite but the color and fabric is beautiful! Its elegance dominates the floor!

  117. Lucy Rose Says:

    Amazing!!! Love the vibrant red colour, the pleats are just awesome, so time consuming though I guess.
    The neck and shoulder area is really unusual but I like it… kinda reminds me of octopus tentacles for some reason.

  118. Sanefa A Says:

    This dress is Amzaing, Beautiful and elegant. Yoji Yamamoto is an internationally known Japanese fashion designer based out of Paris, Japan, and New York.

    He expresses his philosophy and avant-garde spirit in his clothing, frequently creating designs far removed from current trends. Basically, he makes a line characterized by oversized silhouettes; it typically features drapes (loose gathers and tatters) in glossy textures that naturally change with the figure’s contours and movement. Often, a single color (particularly Red in this case) and a single shade are used. One could say that Yohji Yamamoto tries to express himself through his clothing; and you can see thst with this red dress.

  119. Yesenia Sosa Says:

    To begin with this dress is red and its was for spring/summer, open back, longer than dior dress. It has a pair of pleated donutlike shape in the front of the dress: it has one on each side of your shoulder. Besides that it has a coral formation, it look like a comb.

  120. June Stanley Says:

    This dress looks like one that Nicole Kidman wore on the red carpet (or made of it).
    It is a very extravegant garment.

  121. Valentine Says:

    I love this dress. It was the first thing that stood out to me in this exhibit! I would love to wear this! :)

  122. Valentine Says:

    Another comment from moi! :

    I love the way the smooth texture alines with the doughnut-like pieces. It gives a very loud apperence to the wearer!

  123. Maya Says:

    I absolutely adored this dress; its brilliant color and unique design makes it so beautiful and eye catching. I would love to wear this dress.

  124. Sierra Says:

    Another comment from moi!:

    This dress reminds me of a flapper dress- but just the color has the resemblance. I love the way the smooth texture alines with the huge doughnut-like pieces. It gives a very suttle apperence.

  125. emily Says:

    the draping is soo amazing. i love the color.

  126. Richie Rich Says:

    Is this Admiral Yamamoto’s son?…seriously, though. The dress is nice. It reminds me of the carrier Suragai at Midway.

  127. susu Says:

    I thought that this was so cool it really showed how people of the not so fashoinable times lived . I am thinking of going shopping so I could take these models for a makeover (thay need it badly )

  128. Kristen Wigle Says:

    This dress was in the hall so I didnt see it right away. I actually went through the whole collection and then stubbled upon this one as I was leaving. It looked like a regular red dress, how ever as I walked closer I saw the amazing detail on this dress. It was truly breath taking. This dress is so chic and fantastic. I wish I had an occasion to wear it too.

  129. Jennifer F Says:

    If I could pick any garment out of the museum to own as part of my wardrobe, I think it would be this dress. I think it is so glamorous and the color is so vibrant that anyone would stand out in a crowd. The detail of the pleating and the shapes near the neckline give it a simplistic style and doesn’t take away from the natural chic-ness of it. This definitely looks like something you would see on the red carpet!

  130. annie wilson and the ehrlichs Says:

    for me this was the pick of the pieces, wearable art as good fashion design should be. I like oscar Wilde’s quote that fashio is the outward manifestation of the soul - I woul d like to think that my soul looks like this dress.

  131. caroline ch Says:

    Black is the first color comes to mind when I think of Yamamoto. Gray, occasionally silver or blue. Even in his spring collection, you rarely see the use of bright color. This dress catch my eyes in the first place because of its pleating detail and bright color. I immediately think of the Balenciaga Nicole Kidman wore back a few years back when she attended a red carpet event. The style of this dress also reminds of Valentino, simple, elegant, yet amazingly beautiful details. Anything but Yamamoto style. I personally think this is not a dress going to be fit on everyone, but I am in awe when I saw this dress.

  132. Sam and Ali Says:

    these dresses are awsome. they are poppin’ and sexy!!! i espesly like the pink shoes and the chanel shoes!! keep working.
    sam and ali

  133. Veronica Says:

    Those polka- dot boots are so cool! They totally match my jacket! i really want a pair sooooooo bad! I would wear them everyday! polka- dots are the coolest thing everrrr!

  134. tenzin yangchen Says:

    this dress is simply stunning…beautiful.
    Yamamoto is just great.

  135. Shalane James Says:

    I loved the color of this dress more than i did the actual dress. The dress is nice, but i think it’s the color that draws attention to it. Very nice though.

  136. Renata Zenteno Queiroz Says:

    This dress texture is just perfec! It makes me remember in a fancy and elegant way, when I go diving under the sea and watch the corrals and reefs moving by with the water….

  137. James Cutting Says:

    it’s a red dress…..

  138. Upendra Says:

    It looks like a sea creature or something. But I like it.

  139. kate h Says:

    The draping on this dress is impeccable. Beautiful color.

  140. elizabeth P Says:

    I love it absolutely positively.It’s so unique it reminds me of something i’d see at 2030 with the tube shape at the top.

  141. Adriana L Says:

    This piece instantly stood out to me when I entered the exhibit. If I could own one of the exhibits’ pieces, it would irrefutably be this one!!! I love it because it is not only elegant, but extremely feminine. I think any woman would look stunning in it. Absolutely beautiful!

  142. Shelley Says:

    The pleating of this dress is absolutely gorgeous. I wonder what inspires these designers to create such master pieces.

  143. avery Says:

    it is a beautiful dress and I wish for it to be on the runway.

  144. Caitlyn Says:

    i really like this dress the only thing i don’t like is the red flower things they make the dress look really uncomfotable

  145. *Alana* Says:


    TOTALLY FAB !!!!!!

  146. Agustin Says:

    Es como sencillo pero elegante, me gusta mucho mucho mucho mucho :)

  147. Jackie Says:

    wow this dress is AMAZING! =]

  148. Phuman Says:

    The Yamamoto dress is very beautiful. It’s interesting how many of our first reactions are to consider whether or not we “would” wear it, when this is not an option that’s being presented to us. Regardless, it’s very flattering on the seemingly-invisible mannequin that wears it in the exhibit.

  149. charlie Says:

    The outfits are AMAZING!I loved almost every one of them.I<3 the “tucked in red”. It was beautiful.

  150. Hannah Says:

    I think this is a great dress!! The color crimson is wonderful, the skirt is very full and as my cusin would say, “Its very spinny!”
    I love the top over the shoulder sleak style.

  151. SK heart NY Says:

    My gf loves this dress. Can she have it?


    — NY

  152. Marni L. Says:

    The Doughnut like shapes that rest on the shoulders of the dress add a very interesting touch to it. it forms into more than just a dress, it looks like someones is wearing a piece of artwork, almost as though it is not a part of the dress. it makes the dress so gourgess in a very strange way.

  153. Devin Says:

    i have this

  154. Eddie Says:

    The dress reminds me of achitecture…clean lines. Very Calatrava..

  155. Ben Says:

    I always love dresses that catch fire

  156. judi Says:

    The most beautiful dress ever……the pleats and draping are exquisite. Beautiful lines, color, shape.

  157. Isabella Says:

    This dress looks impossible to make , it seems like it just sprang up from the
    ground….it is so beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  158. Ian Says:

    This dress is so elegant until you get to the shoulders and those odd protrusions. They really throw off the outfit in my opinion. I think one might have been good but two really ruins the outfit for me.

  159. rachel Says:

    when i saw this dress i thought marylin manroe

  160. Kaeleigh Says:

    I love this dress very much and i would love to wear it anytime. It is definately eye catching!

  161. miranda Says:

    I love this dress and i think that the role on the sleeve was a gorgous touch. I don’t know who would not wear this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  162. meimi1995529 Says:

    I think this dress is beautiful. The tubes at the top make such an interesting touch!:)

  163. claire Says:

    I really liked your tucked in red. It is a real blast. When I grow up I would like to wear it. Yohji Yamamoto is a really good designer.

  164. Sabrina Lester Says:

    This dress is stunning and very very beautiful. I think the designer was brillant!

  165. Riley Says:


  166. aubrey Says:

    I think it is beautiful!

  167. Emma Says:

    I love how the red tubes on the bodice re-create the image and form. I love the pleats and the dress’s length, the bright red makes the dress very bold.

  168. BRiiZZY Says:

    that dress is beautiful even though it would be for like a ball or something as it looks. i would wear it to a ball, with some red rad shoes. =]

  169. Julia Says:

    The color of this dress is so beautiful. The only flaw that i can find is the little circles sticking out at the top. otherwise this is one of the most prettiest dresses that i have seen in my lifetime.

  170. denise Says:

    these dresses are lovely!!!!

  171. Alan Says:

    I love Japanese fashion

  172. marjo et stef Says:

    Wooww les robes sont magnifiques, ravissantes, SUPERBES quoi. En tous cas, tchouu a la prochaine bec bec bec bec

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