In the mid-1970s Issey Miyake conflated regional apparel traditions with Western high-fashion aesthetics. With his completely original, virtually unshaped pattern pieces, Miyake inaugurated his APOC, or “A Piece of Cloth,” concept for apparel design. By the 1990s many of his garments took on increasingly assertive geometries on the body while still asserting the planarity of their pattern pieces. Of his signature pleated polyester works, the “Staircase” dress is particularly representative of Miyake’s fascination with the sculptural possibilities of cloth. But even with its assertive ziggurat-like form, the designer underscores the essential flatness of each of the four panels that form the body of the garment by exploiting the pleated structure of the cloth to flute and furl like paper.
Women’s Wear Daily noted in its positive review of the collection, “The fact that no one’s going to be wearing pleated pyramids with precision-cut staircases up each side goes without saying.” Clearly, the fashion daily did not consider the likes of Muriel Kallis Newman, the noted collector of Abstract Expressionist art, who wore this piece with great panache to one of The Costume Institute’s opening events. She paired the gown with earrings that brushed her shoulders, comprised, she explained, of one set from a street vendor made of nuts and bolts that she attached to another set done by Cartier in the 1920s. Mrs. Newman’s Tatlin-like accessorization served to underscore Miyake’s affinities for early modernist design and art movements, among them Cubism, the Bauhaus, and perhaps most aptly with regard to this dress, Russian Constructivism.
February 9, 2008 at 11:40 am
‘Mrs. Newman’s Taitlin-like accessorization served to underscore Miyake’s affinities for early modernist design and art movements, among them Cubism, the Bauhaus, and perhaps most aptly with regard to this dress, Russian Constructivism.’
Perhaps you mean ‘ Tatlin-like’ ?
Vladimir Tatlin. (Russian, 1885-1953)
February 9, 2008 at 12:16 pm
‘The fact that no one’s going to be wearing pleated pyramids with precision-cut staircases up each side goes without saying.’
I disagree. I wear them all the time and feel very comfortable.
I just got a piece of Miyake called ‘ Number 9 ‘. The dress really looks like a huge number 9.
It is asymmetrical, eccentric, off center indeed.
It has a hole, a big one, following the shape of the number 9. On my body the hole lands on my waistline ( I am a little old lady who is loosing inches to age).
I suspect the dress can be worn in different ways. The whole is big enough to put the head through, then the garment will become a huge top, rather than a dress. Will see what can be done!
February 9, 2008 at 12:49 pm
This grand sculptural dress is so much more architectonic than Yeohlee’s example. The crispness of the fabric, the sharpness of the pleats and folds and the metallic color all brings to mind constructivism, precisionism, and yet fools us be being soft and wearable. I don’t know why WWD considered it unwearable. It doesn’t feel like gears and corrugations. It just looks like them.
I think it’s what very edgy aircraft designers would do with origami.
February 11, 2008 at 7:28 am
I agree, Laurie, that this was a better example of “the sculptural possibilities of cloth” than the dress by Yeohlee. Although I prefer organic shapes, this dress has structural appeal. it reminds me of a corrugated tin roof. While I don’t find the dress visually stunning, I appreciate what Issey Miyaki attempts to do (and succeeds to do) with fabric and design in all of his clothing. He really is a visionary.
Meanwhile, Marina, you must have an amazing closet!
February 11, 2008 at 10:44 am
‘Meanwhile, Marina, you must have an amazing closet!’
Amazing in the sense that it gives me a lot of pleasure.
I have four pieces from Kawakubo, that were ‘hand-me-downs:
the husbands of my friends were appalled at the idea that their
wives would go out with those outfits. On the other hand, as I said, I am a little old lady: when one reaches my age, there is a lot of stuff in the closet. I never get rid of anything. I rather recycle the look, layer stuff et cetera. Also I get things “on sale” a lot.
February 11, 2008 at 12:28 pm
It sounds amazing. It is my dream to one day acquire a closet of clothes that give me pleasure, also. I anxiously await the day that I am an interestingly attired “little old lady”. Kudos to you.
February 12, 2008 at 3:07 pm
how in the world was it constructed?
February 12, 2008 at 6:22 pm
‘It sounds amazing. It is my dream to one day acquire a closet of clothes that give me pleasure, also. I anxiously await the day that I am an interestingly attired “little old lady”.’
The most important thing is that you have pleasure wearing your choices.
Your choices are unique to you.
You do not need a lot of money to dress in a creative way.
Also keep in mind that many of my pieces are hand-me-downs from friends whose husbands did not want to be seen with their wives, wearing that ’stuff’. My own mother did not approve. When I was living in Rome and wanted to stay there for ever, I applied for a job with the United Nations. My mother was visiting. She took a look at my wardrobe and urged me not to wear ‘any of that stuff’ to the interview!
February 13, 2008 at 3:49 pm
‘how in the world was it constructed?’
My guess is that once you put the dress flat, it is crystal clear how it was constructed: it probably consists of one huge piece that acquires that shape, because of the way the material is cut and the way it is pleated.
For instance I own a dress that consists of a huge piece of material, very long.
When it is folded in two vertically, it has a small hole for the head. That piece can be worn in many ways: as a dress, as a top, as a skirt. In the winter I use it as a scarf. I have it in black, plum, dark green, light green, gray, navy. For traveling is fabulous.
February 13, 2008 at 9:32 pm
This Piece is a bit weird looking, but the dimensions and precision of it is amazing. The pleats and the collar is really neat. I think this is a great design for a furturistic look, I think people would be blown away watching it come down the runway, but definitely not a everyday look.
February 15, 2008 at 11:04 pm
This is impressive if ! A complex architecture of a very tough material, namely by the color, protects the frail figure of a woman
February 18, 2008 at 1:51 pm
This is a runway nightmare. I feel sorry for the designer for making such a disaster.
February 18, 2008 at 1:55 pm
I was astonished to see a dress worn by the same Mrs. Newman at the FIT gallery. Apparently the cognoscenti are just that. And me, a mere spectator…
February 19, 2008 at 10:45 am
it looks like straw. i think its disgusting
February 19, 2008 at 4:22 pm
I like the fact that the label discusses the criticial reception of Miyake’s clothes. I agree with the person above who said that WWD had it wrong, I wear Miyake and it’s very easy and enjoyable to don such lovely, sculptural designs! His clothes are like Fortuny’s but updated.
February 20, 2008 at 9:56 am
Sort of a “modernistic” Fortuny….but wonder if he’d approve?
February 23, 2008 at 11:20 am
I am glad to see a new spin on how the fasion world sees style. This dress makes me think that we are ready to change our ideas.
February 26, 2008 at 1:58 pm
I think this dress lookes like it got stuck in a hair crimper out of control. I like the color though. The color would have been better on a sleak dress that is long and is designed for the Wizard of Oz.
February 29, 2008 at 10:31 am
Issey Miyake is certainly a determined artist and designer in choosing to work with pleats and making it his signiture. Though it may seem monotonous to some after some time, he never fails to come up with unconventional and playful ways of using pleats, a now, essential element to his designs, to surprise and awe his audience. I thought No.9 is more of an art piece than a wearable fashion design, but is boldly fun nonetheless. I don’t believe fashion always has about business, which is what many of the successful and more “mainstream” designers and fashion fans lean toward today. Sadly, many designers/businessmen are forgetting the importance of innovation and the temporary nature of the fast-paced industry.
February 29, 2008 at 3:44 pm
‘…he never fails to come up with unconventional and playful ways of using pleats, a now, essential element to his designs, to surprise and awe his audience. I thought No.9 is more of an art piece than a wearable fashion design, but is boldly fun nonetheless.’
I agree. He is always exploring new possibilities.
As I said before, I disagree about the 9 dress: I wear it all the time, and feel very comfortable. The dress allows for several possible, different ways to wear it.
March 1, 2008 at 1:48 pm
This dress was awsome! I really enjoyed the pleats that surrounded the entire dress. The silhouette created by the dress itself was one that I had not seen before, but it was unique. The precision of the artists hand and the intricate details put into this gown makes it one of a kind. I think I would wear this dress to an event just to be a little bit different from the normal fancy gowns, that many people adorn at special events. A celebrity would certainly get the attention they crave if they graced the red carpet with this dress.
March 14, 2008 at 10:00 am
Hello Friends. This was a fabulous exhibit. Thats really all i have to say because there are no words to describe this fantastic event. It really almost brought my eyes to tears beacasue of the exquisit use of art.
March 19, 2008 at 1:42 pm
I’ve liked so much the grey Issey Miyake’s dress. It’s beautiful and different.
The museum is impresive.
March 20, 2008 at 1:18 pm
WHERE IS THE FASHION??!!
March 20, 2008 at 2:46 pm
thats fabulous. No hot tranny messes. <3
March 22, 2008 at 10:25 am
i dont like this one AT ALL although the material is rather interesting and nice to.
March 22, 2008 at 7:38 pm
i loved it
it was on the stair case and i literally stopped with my jaw OPEN!!
i probably wouldnt wear it but i would love to have it in my closet
=]]
March 26, 2008 at 1:21 pm
Many of these pieces, empty and solitary beside one another in a glass case, would come to life inhabited by living, breathing women. They are amazing as it is, but how much better it would be to see them come to life.
March 30, 2008 at 3:47 pm
This piece, although very well done and very interestingly made, is obviously a piece of art-to-wear clothing that will probably not be worn by anyone. Although the details and construction of the dress are exquist, its just not practical or flattering for anyone. I definitely wouldn’t like to wear it anyways!
March 31, 2008 at 10:59 pm
This piece reminds me of a skyscraper with its defined angles and silver color. The pleating is exquisite. I personally prefer a more feminine silhouette but can appreciate the time and thought that was put into the construction of this garment.
April 3, 2008 at 1:50 pm
This is one of the most interesting constructions for a dress and actually looks wearable. The designer is a master in the use of pleating and fabric.