blog.mode: addressing fashion

In the mid-1970s Issey Miyake conflated regional apparel traditions with Western high-fashion aesthetics. With his completely original, virtually unshaped pattern pieces, Miyake inaugurated his APOC, or “A Piece of Cloth,” concept for apparel design. Read more »

Miguel Adrover (American, born Spain, 1965). Coat and Skirt Ensemble with Vintage Fendi Scarf, fall/winter 2000–1. Coat: blue and white striped cotton twill mattress ticking. Skirt: beige and white striped cotton twill. Scarf: ivory silk with allover double interlocked “F” logo print, navy band trim, and burgundy tie-dyed pattern. Gift of Miguel Adrover, 2005 (2005.44.1a–c).

This design from Miguel Adrover’s second collection was described by Cathy Horyn of The New York Times as “a simple but respectable Sunday-going-to-church outfit out of a Willa Cather story.” Read more »

Junya Watanabe (Japanese, b. 1961) for Comme des Garçons (French, founded 1969). Ensemble, fall/winter 2000–1. Pale greige polyester organza and silver polyester and cellophane panné velvet. Purchase, Richard Martin Bequest, 2001 (2001.742a, b)

Junya Watanabe referred to his fall/winter 2000–2001 collection as “techno-couture.” Read more »

Madame Grès (French, 1903–1993). Evening Gown, ca. 1979. Red silk taffeta. Anonymous Gift, 2005 (2005.294.1).

Although Mme Grès is best known for her densely pleated, silk jersey “Goddess” gowns, she equally favored eveningwear in more varied silhouettes rendered in heavy silk crepes, mohair knits, and silk taffetas. Read more »

Yeohlee Teng (Malaysian, b. 1951). “Bellows” Dress, fall/winter 2007–8. Mercury silver Lurex. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Yeohlee Teng, 2007 (2007.375.3).

From her earliest collections, Yeohlee’s approach to garment construction set her apart from most American design houses because of her interest in the structural possibilities of cloth. Read more »