Philip Treacy (British, born Ireland, 1967) for Alexander McQueen (British, b. 1969). “Chinese Garden” Headdress, spring/summer 2005. Cork. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Alfred Z. Solomon-Janet A. Sloane Endowment Fund, 2007 (2007.307).
Philip Treacy’s hats are exquisite sculptures. Whether it is a poppy sun hat in silk organza with stamens of burnt feathers or biomorphic plastic visors with ocular perforations for the wearer to see through, Treacy’s work is characterized by the virtuosity of his technique and imagination. Like his fellow milliner Stephen Jones, Treacy often does his most astonishing work in collaboration with couturiers, whether Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, or, as here, Alexander McQueen. Like that of many of the designers of his generation emerging out of the London fashion scene, Treacy’s work, for all its originality, is also rooted in his deep knowledge of the history of art, fashion, and design. This Chinese garden refers to the popularity of Chinoiserie in the eighteenth century and to the 1770s fashion for elaborate landscapes constructed in the topography of a woman’s heroically sculpted hair. For his high style coronet, Treacy has cannibalized the decorative shadowboxes of intricately cut-worked cork purchased in Asia, and rearranged them into his own orientalist fantasy.
The “Chinese Garden” hat was inspired by my trip to Kyoto in Japan. I love the idea of wearing a fantasy Japanese landscape on one’s head while dreaming of Japan. The handmade cork figures were acquired from Japan and represent about 150 hours of workmanship.
—Philip Treacy
February 13, 2008 at 9:06 am
I find this interesting and beautiful. I love the reference to “1770s fashion for elaborate landscapes constructed in the topography of a woman’s heroically sculpted hair”. This is a creative modernization of that art form.
February 13, 2008 at 12:05 pm
I like the reference to Marie Antoinette’s, for example, sculpted hair, but I think what Treacy has primarily achieved is a “heroically sculpted” 3D version of the chinoiserie so popular in textiles and wallcoverings of the time in all its delicacy.
February 13, 2008 at 4:27 pm
I don’t really have anything more eloquent to add except that this is definitely one of the most beautiful headpieces he’s ever done.
I remember thinking before this was posted and before visiting the exhibit that this was actually a piece he did for a Givenchy Haute Couture collection by McQueen circa 1998. There was a nearly identical headpiece in that collection, just a bit smaller and presumably out of different materials.
February 13, 2008 at 5:18 pm
This headpiece is a stunning piece of art. I am not sure how practical it would be to wear it but I appreciate the time it would take to create this detailed work of art. The great thing about this is that it shows how artistic you can be when it comes to designing clothes and accessories and how anything you stumble across can influence you.
February 13, 2008 at 9:25 pm
This elaborate head piece is so amazing. It has beautiful detailing and fine craftsmanship. Some details are so small, you have to look really close to figure out what is going on in the piece. It is one of the most beautiful headpieces I’ve ever seen and is definitely a fine work of art.
February 15, 2008 at 12:44 am
Is beautiful, the thoughts materialized exactly on the head and like them, in a material vulnerable. Perfect!
February 16, 2008 at 7:07 pm
I surprise to watch this here. Where I come from, people in long working conditions and not much money have to make this for tourist products. These make me feel surprise because how is “fashion” here exploiting the work of unknown and underprivileged people. The woman says there are “more than 150 hours of work” represented in hat — yes, maybe so, but it is the work of people making no money. How much money does she make with this? Does there any mention of all the people who make this work and but she is the one taking credit for “all its originality” as like this is her own? I feel there needs to be aware of that she is using the work of others to make her own but does not acknowledge this.
February 16, 2008 at 8:25 pm
This is gorgeous, like something for a production of “Turandot”. I adore this sort of thing. Of course, I remember the days of strolling past the Bes-Ben store on N. Michigan Ave. just to see what he had come up with!
February 17, 2008 at 11:23 am
Wow. Why do they file this type of thing under ‘clothing’ as opposed to art? Nobody would wear that type of thing in public. I suppose it opens up new ideas… but nonetheless this type of clothing is destined to stay in the art gallery.
February 17, 2008 at 12:14 pm
This hat is a dream come true, i really wish that the hats today could be sooo completely extravagant. This hat runs chills down my spine, wow, we all should wear hats like this!
February 18, 2008 at 1:20 pm
it’s not my fave in this whole place.
February 18, 2008 at 2:25 pm
how did you get CHinese Garden from a japanese inspired theme?
February 18, 2008 at 9:45 pm
That would be cool if we all wore different hats like this around town… haha
either to express our culture or just to make a statement. I bet you people would not have the guts to walk around with this on their heads anymore.
February 19, 2008 at 11:27 am
It is very detailed and beautiful but a bit inpractical. It seems if you put it on your head you will fall over.
February 19, 2008 at 1:37 pm
It is a beautiful headband. It looks like moose’s ears and it looks like a village on a head.
February 19, 2008 at 4:55 pm
my favorite thing in the whole show - it brings memories of the late, gorgeous exquisite Isabella Blow
I wish there could have been greater discussion of the critical reception of the clothes and about the donors, inconsistently included in some labels
despite your wish to make this accessible and un-intimidating, the label copy is extremely scholarly, uses foreign words, and makes art historical references that many visitors might not be familiar with
February 19, 2008 at 4:58 pm
Truely I think it looks like Mickey Mouse ears. It would be amazing for a sculpture but not on a person’s head.
February 20, 2008 at 9:53 am
This thing would scare the heck out of my horse…..or else he would think it was something to eat.
February 20, 2008 at 11:27 am
It’s pretty cool. It reminds me of moose ears.
February 20, 2008 at 12:14 pm
Imagine having that on your head!!!!!!!
February 20, 2008 at 1:29 pm
you gotta have alot of guts to wear this
February 20, 2008 at 1:37 pm
It’s beautiful. The design is intriguing and lovely. It is very creative to make a wearable headpiece like this, as opposed to a sculpture or other form of art. I’m not sure I would wear it, but I appreciate it as a piece of art. Its style makes me think of a painting, but it’s wonderful that the artist thought to make it a headpiece. I love it, I love it, I love it!! Wonderful, beautiful, great!
February 20, 2008 at 1:55 pm
wonderfly amazimg intricate designsbut what were they thinking:that on a headband as a headdress?
February 20, 2008 at 4:18 pm
To me it looks like a tree, and each branch is a different story.
February 20, 2008 at 10:33 pm
I am surprised that no one mentioned or emphasize the beauty of oriental style incorportated in this head piece. I have seen many of Philip Tracy’s design, but this one is beyond my expectation. The detail carving, the elegant composition and the innovative concept all combine together to create this narrative story line for the head! wow, ncie work buddy!
February 21, 2008 at 7:40 am
wow. amazing. fascinating. unbelievable. How in the world could someone make that? Such a beautiful design.
February 21, 2008 at 2:25 pm
A la Celestial garden lulu
February 21, 2008 at 2:48 pm
The head dress is nice, but i think it will look much better as a centerpiece.
February 21, 2008 at 2:59 pm
This headdress is just amazing. I would love to go some where and see some one where this beautiful creation! Who created this is just an amazing designer and artist all in one!
-_^ people this is a great piece of art and fashion!
February 22, 2008 at 3:48 pm
seriously, who would wear that?
February 23, 2008 at 12:49 pm
it’s soooooo cool!!!!!I love it!
February 23, 2008 at 12:51 pm
Very strange. Everyone would stare!
February 23, 2008 at 1:01 pm
this scultpure is absolutely beautiful and ornate.
I could do with one in my House!
February 24, 2008 at 12:57 pm
I agree with Jessica :-b
February 24, 2008 at 1:50 pm
I love the headdress. So delicate and cool!!
February 27, 2008 at 5:18 pm
This headpiece is exquisite and intricate which really shows amazing sculpting. This is definitly an artpiece and I really never thought that such a headpiece was possible and it would be nice as a sculpture in your house but it really is more spectacular used as a headpiece in a fashion show. Overall, Bravo!! Masterful Work!!
February 28, 2008 at 7:53 pm
Philip Treacy was born in Co. Galway, Ireland. Why on earth would you call him British?
February 29, 2008 at 10:27 am
This head piece really caught my attention, mostly because of its inspiration relating to Chinese culture (being Chinese myself). I remember having a carved cork garden displayed in my house when I was 3, so it was really interesting to see this decorative piece used as a headdress instead. It is also interesting how such a delicate object was used for the head, since traditionally headdresses usually portray status. In Chinese culture, traditional gardens or landscapes are closely related to Taoist poetry and intellects. However, one thing which slightly boggled my mind was the fact that the inspiration of Chinese gardens was taken from a trip to Japan. I understand that this inspiration was a representation of the spread of Chinoiserie, but this still seamed odd that a Chinese garden was considered a Japanese landscape.
February 29, 2008 at 6:24 pm
Wow, this is a really intracite piece. I really loved the cranes on it. There was so much detail! I think that it’s amazing someone built this. I really love this headdress.
February 29, 2008 at 8:04 pm
love this hat-amazing-I would certainly wear it!
March 1, 2008 at 11:18 am
this is the coolest museme ever
March 1, 2008 at 5:54 pm
this is a very delicate headpiece. it looks very hard to make
March 2, 2008 at 11:20 am
Why would anybody wear it? Mabey the Japeneese would wear it for roayle dances, but you wouldn’t wear it in public.
March 2, 2008 at 1:41 pm
gorgeous
March 2, 2008 at 3:51 pm
I totally agree with my sis, Sydney. Who would wear it and where, other than to a stupid and crazy hat party?
March 3, 2008 at 7:35 am
This is really a beautiful piece of art. How would you keep it on your head though? You would be wobbling around like a windy forest.
March 6, 2008 at 6:40 pm
This is such a beautiful piece. I definitely recognize this piece from Alexander’s show. I like how tracy took the concept of Chinese garden and made such an intricate piece. I feel the strength in details and the intricacy relates to the oriental ism and the Asian background. However, Japanese estatic in art is very simple and bolder compared to Chinoiserie. I would never respond to this head piece as an Japanese inspired in terms of the craft work and the complexity. After hiring 300 people design and make this head piece I’m starting to doubt about the clarity of the concept. This piece also reminds me of the estatic movement where as nowadays people only care about the beauty of the visual instead of the meaning or concept.
March 7, 2008 at 11:27 am
this is soo pretty i would so wear it to my school like everday ommmmgggggg.
March 7, 2008 at 11:53 am
super cool very original.
March 7, 2008 at 4:22 pm
This is a must-see. Up close, you can see the exquisite detail
March 9, 2008 at 2:37 pm
Sooooo Frou Frou, no real person would ever wear any of this stuff
March 12, 2008 at 12:06 pm
Wow! can you imagine wearing this to work?
March 13, 2008 at 10:01 am
I love people, and any one who wore this would be me hero for life, although i would destroy the world if it was ever broken, so think about that before you wear it, then get back to me. Just thought I would throw in me two cents, I love you with a passion only few will ever know, thank you.
March 13, 2008 at 11:38 am
Looks like a tree.
March 13, 2008 at 11:40 am
I WOULD NEVER WEAR THAT, IT IS NOT PRACTICAL. WHERE WOULD YOU WEAR IT TO. IT’S NOT LIKE IT’S FANCY. FOR DRESS UP MABEY BUT TO WEAR IT OUT FOR ME THAT IS A FASHION DON’T!!!
NO WAY!!!
March 13, 2008 at 11:45 am
How would they make this with all the details and everything its beautiful!!!!!
It would go well with “The birth of Venus”. They’re both nature-y.
March 14, 2008 at 11:38 am
This hat is sooooooooooo awesome!
I wonder how long it took to make it???
March 15, 2008 at 11:12 am
I think this headpiece is so beautiful! I would love to be able to try it on!
March 15, 2008 at 11:46 am
I luvv this.i would giv this to any of my girls and i garantee you that they would love it…
March 15, 2008 at 11:46 am
i totally love it. omg auhhh
March 15, 2008 at 4:10 pm
This “hat” is beautiful as a scultpure, but the exhbitionist tone it embodies is disconcerning. The creator explains that he loves the idea of one wearing what he is dreaming as a hat on his head. Literary the dreams of the person is displayed on their head. Fashion has bared everything taboo- but I believe that dreams and imagined wishes should be left to the mind and heart. There is something sad in the way that a person’s dreams can be contained by a hat. Dreams are expansive. I do not want to portray my dreams to the world in this way; for the beauty of dreams are always growing and changing. Once your dreams are defined and out their to be judged by the world, they tend to be changed by the world’s response. There is something too definitive, literal and static about this hat in relation to dreams. There should be a line drawn where it is fashionable to be such an exhbitionist and I would rather my body be exhibited and judged than my dreams.
March 18, 2008 at 3:36 pm
funny
March 19, 2008 at 3:31 pm
I must agree with one of the previous posters…WHY is it called Chinese Garden??? The last time I checked, China and Japan are just a little bit different.
It would be a beautiful wall hanging, but I think it is kind of stupid as a hat.
March 20, 2008 at 12:20 pm
Wow! I do not see a practical use for this headband but the craftmanship and extradornary attention to details makes this one of the most intresting head pieces here.
March 20, 2008 at 2:01 pm
Like wearing a piece of fantasy on one’s head
March 21, 2008 at 2:27 pm
love the dresses
March 21, 2008 at 6:40 pm
I really love this head dress and I would love to wear it and see all the reactions I get. The detail in the cranes is amazing. The details in the houses, trees, and birds is just beautiful. It looks as fragile as origami designs.
March 21, 2008 at 7:01 pm
Cool
March 22, 2008 at 12:17 pm
philip is irish. not british!!!!!!
March 22, 2008 at 2:50 pm
i think it is strange to be wearing a garden landscape on the head
March 22, 2008 at 3:28 pm
how long do you think it took to make it?!
March 23, 2008 at 1:19 pm
WHAT A HOT HEADPIECE!!!!!!!!!! ya know
March 25, 2008 at 2:06 pm
as cool as they are,
who would wear them??
March 27, 2008 at 1:32 pm
best….hat….ever….
March 28, 2008 at 11:55 am
This was one of my favorite pieces of the exhibit. The detail on this beautiful headdress is so amazingly executed.
Also, great exhibition show. I’m currently taking an exhibit design course at RISD right now, and this show has definitely been a treat. The lighting on the pieces alone are what makes this exhibition exciting. Thank you!
March 28, 2008 at 1:32 pm
beautiful but probably hard to wear.
March 28, 2008 at 3:48 pm
I think the dress would look great on that woman thats the kinda thing I would picture her in! Its well put together and looks so great and formal!!!
March 29, 2008 at 10:27 am
this is very intresting…. Its beautiful and looks like something that would be worn at a costume party but in a very elegant way
March 30, 2008 at 10:14 am
Ummmmmmm……. i would soooooo get an unfantabulos headahe. :(:(:(:(
March 30, 2008 at 10:16 am
what a faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaancy headband. i think it should be painted, it would look cooler. also it reminds me of the elaborate headpeices the french used to wear on top of their wigs (circa Marie Antionnette)
April 1, 2008 at 3:28 am
Growing up with a mother who loves interesting hats, this one truly takes the cake. It is very interesting and makes you think where in the world you could ever actually wear that without people thinking you’re completely nuts. Not everyone lives in a “fabulous” world.
April 4, 2008 at 1:18 pm
im wearing this right now as i blog…. envy me
April 4, 2008 at 1:19 pm
you people are insane, this isn’t interesting or beautiful to put on the top of your head. it makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever.
April 5, 2008 at 9:20 am
Wow, not really a headdress, but a beautiful sculpture. I’d love it as a centerpiece or for the mantel. But in answer to the person above, it was only meant to be worn on the head for the fashion shows or as a “statement.” I don’t think anyone would wear it to the mall.
April 5, 2008 at 3:09 pm
its so interesting and colorful I LOVE IT!! it so creative and fun. I wouldn’t want to wear it but wouldn’t it be fun to just try to walk in this stuff? Haha well enjoy!!
April 6, 2008 at 2:52 pm
Are you sure this is a hat? I’m not completely sure. It looks more like something I would see at a japanese botanical garden. I wouldn’t like to wear it, but it is cool and creative.
April 9, 2008 at 12:04 pm
This headdress took my breath away. It is the intricatness of a carved bone sculpture and the elegance of a detailed headdress that have come together to form this delightful headpiece. I would love to see more of these in runway shows and on the streets of today’s world
April 10, 2008 at 10:02 am
This Chinese Garden hat is exquisite in its intricate design. I love the idea that whatever you are thinking about is shown in the hat that you wear. . . This is a funny idea. Visible thoughts! Fantasy, other-worldliness and eccentricity are shown here to the highest degree. Loves it!
April 10, 2008 at 2:19 pm
i would love to walk through the garden but i don’t think i would ever wear the Chinese Garden hat.
April 11, 2008 at 9:02 pm
I personally see this piece as the antlers of a moose from a far but when you get close you can see the true beauty of it and the pure wood carvings. What a shame it was wasted in a head piece. Although fashion is supposed to be over done and edgy this statement really doesn’t go through to me.
Thanks Much!!
Viki Benet
April 12, 2008 at 6:49 pm
OMFG! i love all fot the clothes in here. it is amazing. i lvesd everything.some clothes were so beautiful i could not stand not looking at them. all of the clothes and dressesds gave me an inspiration to dress better. lol! Thanks for a great experience!!!!!!<3333 M
April 13, 2008 at 2:55 pm
I smiled when I saw this. It’s not about being wearable or practical, but vision. The whole exhibit reminds me that in America we’ve changed the meaning of “couture” and fashion, and many think that things mass created are couture and “fashion” when in fact, they are not. It’s refreshing to see so much creativity and passion in one place. I like seeing designers that think about the body and attitude rather than what’s trending.